Last night, while on a mission for a delicious banana-chocolate pancake, I found a tsunami warning. The news was giving us twenty minutes to reach high ground. Images of Phuket's evacuation flashed on television screens and some people on Kho Phi PHi began packing their bags full of rations. All the boats left the pier and headed towards deeper waters.
Following the news warnings that earthquake activity in the Indian ocean could cause a tsunami, we cleared to high ground and spent half the evening (i slept) just waiting. In the end, everything here was all right.
Kho Phi Phi
After one night in Phuket we caught a boat to an island that other travellers had mentioned as a good place to volunteer. Newspapers were calling this island one of the hardest hit areas and some said that the government was refusing entry. There were even rumors that the whole island was closed. On the contrary, many of the people who survived the tsunami are working hard to reopen their businesses.
While the issue is multi-faceted, my simple understanding is that after the tsunami the government was interested in buying up property on the island. The Thai landowners got together and discussed it, but decided they wanted to keep their land and rebuild their lives. Having decided to remain on the island, they expected to receive government aid but once they requested assistance Thailand's government responded with a new "negotiation date." March 22, the date reserved, brought only a government offer to once again buy the land. When owners refused to sell and instead asked for assistance, the government simply responded with a new negotiation date.
It has now been 3 months and the government has done very little to help. After the tsunami a group that goes by the name of HI-Phi-Phi (Help International, Phi PHi Island) came together to help businesses get up and running. Travellers have flocked in and are working everyday to assist the locals in their development. Backpackers from all over the world are laying cement, snorkeling to clear trash, laying bricks, painting, etc. One Irish gentleman raised money with his son, flew to Thailand, and then purchased a cement mixer, concrete, and supplies and is now moving from one devastated building to another.
The community here is incredible. Jenny and I have been volunteering for almost a week and truly believe this is a great organization for contributing both time and money. Just in the past week we have seen multiple businesses reopen. Tourists are beginning to return to the Island, but it is still far from a full recovery.
To see pictures of the progress or to donate to this effort (they need all the help possible) please visit: www.handsonphiphi.org
If you happen to be travelling to the area or know people who will be, spread the word.
While the issue is multi-faceted, my simple understanding is that after the tsunami the government was interested in buying up property on the island. The Thai landowners got together and discussed it, but decided they wanted to keep their land and rebuild their lives. Having decided to remain on the island, they expected to receive government aid but once they requested assistance Thailand's government responded with a new "negotiation date." March 22, the date reserved, brought only a government offer to once again buy the land. When owners refused to sell and instead asked for assistance, the government simply responded with a new negotiation date.
It has now been 3 months and the government has done very little to help. After the tsunami a group that goes by the name of HI-Phi-Phi (Help International, Phi PHi Island) came together to help businesses get up and running. Travellers have flocked in and are working everyday to assist the locals in their development. Backpackers from all over the world are laying cement, snorkeling to clear trash, laying bricks, painting, etc. One Irish gentleman raised money with his son, flew to Thailand, and then purchased a cement mixer, concrete, and supplies and is now moving from one devastated building to another.
The community here is incredible. Jenny and I have been volunteering for almost a week and truly believe this is a great organization for contributing both time and money. Just in the past week we have seen multiple businesses reopen. Tourists are beginning to return to the Island, but it is still far from a full recovery.
To see pictures of the progress or to donate to this effort (they need all the help possible) please visit: www.handsonphiphi.org
If you happen to be travelling to the area or know people who will be, spread the word.
"Further South"
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After Ko Chang we caught a bus south along the coast and through a series of events (like missing the bus we had planned to take) actually wound up in Phuket. Entering the city left all of the riders a bit shaken. The road dips in and out of coastline and just north of Phuket the trees disappear, flourescent tubes mounted on poles replace old street lamps, and all one can see for many miles is red bulldozed earth and buildings constructed from salvaged rubbish. The current drought that is affecting most of Thailand makes matters even worse. Some people threw-up and we were all silent until a little Thai boy shouting his English alphabet all out of order, "J, K, L, W!" reminded us to laugh. I have to agree with him that the order is truly arbitrary, and I appreciate his English/life lesson. the quiet after destruction and then rebuilding and growth. laughter.
Little Ko Chang
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Just south of Myanmar/Burma lies the small island of Ko Chang, with few bungalows and mostly German travellers it is barely visited by the average backpacker and manages to retain a peaceful environment. This was the original location (prior to tsunami) that we had planned to hideout with just a typewriter and a bungalow. It is truly amazing that the island even survived as fishing villages not 30-km south were absolutely devastated. The island is, however, in need of tourism as they have had very few travellers in the past couple of months and many lost their boats.
Around Ranong (the port city near Ko Chang) most of the travellers we encountered were there to volunteer. Almost all of them arranged to help through an international organization and had paid in advance. Some felt that it was a culturally enriching experience, as many of these volunteers tend to stay with families, but complained that they didn't feel they did much (mostly watched Thai workers). They are of course helping create a supportive presense that doesn't just hit the billfold, but the most questionable aspect of these arrangements is the amount of money volunteers have paid to participate (it's A LOT).
Around Ranong (the port city near Ko Chang) most of the travellers we encountered were there to volunteer. Almost all of them arranged to help through an international organization and had paid in advance. Some felt that it was a culturally enriching experience, as many of these volunteers tend to stay with families, but complained that they didn't feel they did much (mostly watched Thai workers). They are of course helping create a supportive presense that doesn't just hit the billfold, but the most questionable aspect of these arrangements is the amount of money volunteers have paid to participate (it's A LOT).
(click to enlarge)
A friend who was with us on Mana Island in Fiji just sent me an e-mail with this photo attatched. This is of us playing duck-duck-goose with the school kids (notice Jenny is in the mush pot... ha ha!).
Meditation & Bat Poo
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After spending three nights in the busy city of Bangkok, we hopped a train west to the small town of Kanchanaburi where we have been sleeping in a floating hut, made of particle board, recycled from old shipping crates, and whose walls still bare a blue stamp from some distant Canadian city. Apart from the occasional elephant gun fired in celebration, or the ubiquitous motor boats pulling disco restaurants, the town has been a peaceful stop. We have spent much of our time perusing local food markets and sampling vegetarian cuisine, but only after some difficulty expressing, "I eat only vegetarian food," in Thai. Our reward: homemade tofu, fresh soymilk (yes, made by the vendor selling it), some incredible fruits, tom kha phak, and banana pancakes, just to name a few.
Two days ago we rented bikes and visited a temple built inside a cave. Illuminated by 60W bulbs and smelling of ammonia (bat pee) we were open to explore each labrynth, but our guide made sure that we each went in seperate directions for meditation. It was truly an amazing experience complimented by a friendly family who helped us to fix a flat (acquired by our Canadian friend) and showed us how to eat sour raw Tamarind.
We are now south along the Adaman coast (just south of Mayanmar/Burma) where apparently the only casualty from the tsunami involved an office desk. After a couple days on the island of Ko Chang we plan to head further south.
Two days ago we rented bikes and visited a temple built inside a cave. Illuminated by 60W bulbs and smelling of ammonia (bat pee) we were open to explore each labrynth, but our guide made sure that we each went in seperate directions for meditation. It was truly an amazing experience complimented by a friendly family who helped us to fix a flat (acquired by our Canadian friend) and showed us how to eat sour raw Tamarind.
We are now south along the Adaman coast (just south of Mayanmar/Burma) where apparently the only casualty from the tsunami involved an office desk. After a couple days on the island of Ko Chang we plan to head further south.
"Great City of angels, Repository of Divine Gems, Great Land Unconquerale, Grand and Prominent Realm, Royal and Delightful Capital City...
...Full of Nine Noble Gems, Highest Royal Dwelling and Grand Palace, Divine Shelter and Living Place of Reincarnated Spirits."
a.k.a, Bangkok-- but that's the short version (you should try saying it in Thai: "Krungthep mahanakhon amon ratanakosin mahintara ayuthaya mahadilok popnopparat ratchathani burirom udomratchaniwet mahsathan amonpiman avatansathit sakkathattiya witsanukamprasit").
Just under two weeks ago Jenny and I stood at the southern most tip of New Zealand's south island where we had stumbled capriciously, moving amongst other travelers who had planned picnics for the 59th degree latitude, and who probably knew in advance that they were taking themselves to the last bluff of land. Jenny threw a stone south, towards Antarctica, and I asked her if it made it. She said it did, so I'll just have to take her word for it.
Now, far away from Antarctica, but still traveling by impulse, we are in Bangkok, indefinitely, and are considering a trip south to the Adaman sea (west coast area hit by tsunami). Apparently there are still very few travellers in the area and while some villages work to rebuild what was lost others have almost fully recovered. We spoke to one traveller yesterday who informed us of some rebuilding efforts and an organization that is accepting volunteers, "Shovel in the mourning, swim in the afternoon."
Aside from a long name, Bangkok, (population= approximately 6 million) is buzzing both night and day, like static on a telivision set: mopeds and fly-by shirttails, incense and fresh jasmine flowers, unfiltered car pollution (visibility must be under a mile), smiles, & bed bugs. Its all kinetic (especially those bed bugs). We arrived two days ago and managed to find some very cheap accomadations in the old city (we pay about $2 a night). In fact everything here is "thuuk" (cheap)-- just to give an idea, one meal is generally under a dollar, coffee is 50 cents or less, and diesal shoes sold in the street are $10 (i'm not sure what these go for in the states, but i know its not 10 bucks).
Having never used squat toilets, these have perhaps taken the most getting used to. For those who have never had the opportunity, squat toilets are basically a porcelain hole in the floor with two foot places on either side. Next to the "toilet" there is a nice Thai bidet for washing the nether regions. The "bidet" consists of a bucket of water with a floating bowl for scooping water and then, well... i'm sure you get the idea. the left hand is reserved for such occasions and after using a squat toilet, one begins to understand why the feet are not sacred. When using a squat toilet, try not to pay too close attention to activities as urine flow is subject to ricochet and could quite possibly adulterate the all too sacred head.... uh.. so i've heard.
a.k.a, Bangkok-- but that's the short version (you should try saying it in Thai: "Krungthep mahanakhon amon ratanakosin mahintara ayuthaya mahadilok popnopparat ratchathani burirom udomratchaniwet mahsathan amonpiman avatansathit sakkathattiya witsanukamprasit").
Just under two weeks ago Jenny and I stood at the southern most tip of New Zealand's south island where we had stumbled capriciously, moving amongst other travelers who had planned picnics for the 59th degree latitude, and who probably knew in advance that they were taking themselves to the last bluff of land. Jenny threw a stone south, towards Antarctica, and I asked her if it made it. She said it did, so I'll just have to take her word for it.
Now, far away from Antarctica, but still traveling by impulse, we are in Bangkok, indefinitely, and are considering a trip south to the Adaman sea (west coast area hit by tsunami). Apparently there are still very few travellers in the area and while some villages work to rebuild what was lost others have almost fully recovered. We spoke to one traveller yesterday who informed us of some rebuilding efforts and an organization that is accepting volunteers, "Shovel in the mourning, swim in the afternoon."
Aside from a long name, Bangkok, (population= approximately 6 million) is buzzing both night and day, like static on a telivision set: mopeds and fly-by shirttails, incense and fresh jasmine flowers, unfiltered car pollution (visibility must be under a mile), smiles, & bed bugs. Its all kinetic (especially those bed bugs). We arrived two days ago and managed to find some very cheap accomadations in the old city (we pay about $2 a night). In fact everything here is "thuuk" (cheap)-- just to give an idea, one meal is generally under a dollar, coffee is 50 cents or less, and diesal shoes sold in the street are $10 (i'm not sure what these go for in the states, but i know its not 10 bucks).
Having never used squat toilets, these have perhaps taken the most getting used to. For those who have never had the opportunity, squat toilets are basically a porcelain hole in the floor with two foot places on either side. Next to the "toilet" there is a nice Thai bidet for washing the nether regions. The "bidet" consists of a bucket of water with a floating bowl for scooping water and then, well... i'm sure you get the idea. the left hand is reserved for such occasions and after using a squat toilet, one begins to understand why the feet are not sacred. When using a squat toilet, try not to pay too close attention to activities as urine flow is subject to ricochet and could quite possibly adulterate the all too sacred head.... uh.. so i've heard.
New Zealand "Benchmarks and Metrics"
Percent of nights not spent in hostels (i.e. tent, car, ferry): 75%
Percent of nights spent on treks: 20%
Percent of time spent on treks: 25%
Percent of Breakfasts that were Eggs Benedict: 10%*
Tomorrow we leave New Zealand and take a 13 hour flight to Bangkok, Thailand.
*All statistics quoted above were calculated, recorded, and rounded by Jenny. Any errors may therefore be attributed to her.
Percent of nights spent on treks: 20%
Percent of time spent on treks: 25%
Percent of Breakfasts that were Eggs Benedict: 10%*
Tomorrow we leave New Zealand and take a 13 hour flight to Bangkok, Thailand.
*All statistics quoted above were calculated, recorded, and rounded by Jenny. Any errors may therefore be attributed to her.
Able-Tasman
After taking care of logistics for the past couple of days, as well as hanging out in the lovely little city of Christchurch (quite comparable to Austin-- large arts scene, music, etc...) we are now in Picton (thanks to a free rental car return! yea!) and are planning on starting the Able-Tasman tomorrow. The Tasman is a beach hike and is considered one of the "Great Walks" of NZ (there are 10). We are considering either hiking or kayaking.
Here's a nice image of the Able-Tasman trek:
http://www.kiwizz.co.uk/images/album/21.jpg
Here's a nice image of the Able-Tasman trek:
http://www.kiwizz.co.uk/images/album/21.jpg
New Life Plan
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Pirates of the Fiordland! (nevermind that we don't have boats) Aargh!
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