"Great City of angels, Repository of Divine Gems, Great Land Unconquerale, Grand and Prominent Realm, Royal and Delightful Capital City...

...Full of Nine Noble Gems, Highest Royal Dwelling and Grand Palace, Divine Shelter and Living Place of Reincarnated Spirits."
a.k.a, Bangkok-- but that's the short version (you should try saying it in Thai: "Krungthep mahanakhon amon ratanakosin mahintara ayuthaya mahadilok popnopparat ratchathani burirom udomratchaniwet mahsathan amonpiman avatansathit sakkathattiya witsanukamprasit").

Just under two weeks ago Jenny and I stood at the southern most tip of New Zealand's south island where we had stumbled capriciously, moving amongst other travelers who had planned picnics for the 59th degree latitude, and who probably knew in advance that they were taking themselves to the last bluff of land. Jenny threw a stone south, towards Antarctica, and I asked her if it made it. She said it did, so I'll just have to take her word for it.

Now, far away from Antarctica, but still traveling by impulse, we are in Bangkok, indefinitely, and are considering a trip south to the Adaman sea (west coast area hit by tsunami). Apparently there are still very few travellers in the area and while some villages work to rebuild what was lost others have almost fully recovered. We spoke to one traveller yesterday who informed us of some rebuilding efforts and an organization that is accepting volunteers, "Shovel in the mourning, swim in the afternoon."

Aside from a long name, Bangkok, (population= approximately 6 million) is buzzing both night and day, like static on a telivision set: mopeds and fly-by shirttails, incense and fresh jasmine flowers, unfiltered car pollution (visibility must be under a mile), smiles, & bed bugs. Its all kinetic (especially those bed bugs). We arrived two days ago and managed to find some very cheap accomadations in the old city (we pay about $2 a night). In fact everything here is "thuuk" (cheap)-- just to give an idea, one meal is generally under a dollar, coffee is 50 cents or less, and diesal shoes sold in the street are $10 (i'm not sure what these go for in the states, but i know its not 10 bucks).

Having never used squat toilets, these have perhaps taken the most getting used to. For those who have never had the opportunity, squat toilets are basically a porcelain hole in the floor with two foot places on either side. Next to the "toilet" there is a nice Thai bidet for washing the nether regions. The "bidet" consists of a bucket of water with a floating bowl for scooping water and then, well... i'm sure you get the idea. the left hand is reserved for such occasions and after using a squat toilet, one begins to understand why the feet are not sacred. When using a squat toilet, try not to pay too close attention to activities as urine flow is subject to ricochet and could quite possibly adulterate the all too sacred head.... uh.. so i've heard.

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