Back in the Rockies...

Griff examines ways down (a 5.5 mile-long run).

The hike up...

An avalanche forecaster shows the varied layers of snow.

The cabin we stayed in, Hilliard-Fowler (shown below), is part of the 10th Mountain Division Hut System, named for the men of the 10th Mountain Division of the U.S. Army who trained during WWII in the area in order to prepare for skiing into less accessible areas.  The hut sits above treeline.

The fast track back...

En route we were of course distracted by an avocado farm discovered last minute outside of Antigua, Guatemala. A couple of days spent there (below Griffin is on the swing overlooking the valley where Antigua sits and one of the many volcanoes, although covered by a cloud in this photo), followed by another stop in Boca Del Cielo (Chiapas, Mexico) and then on to Oaxaca City, we plan to leave here tomorrow to head to Mexico City. Haven´t yet decided if we will spend some time there before heading back or if we will just hop another night bus and make it to the border by day break. Vamos a ver...

On the Road Again!

I am now convinced that riding chicken buses actually burns calories. The physical strain of tensed arms, legs, and abdomen in order to keep rooted to one's seat is indeed comparable to that of an aerobics class with a maddened maniacal guatemalan bus driver as coach, only instead of a whistle he chants a mantra (generally a shortened version of the destination) to all those who pass hoping he can attract them to this moving, and rather condensed, bus of calisthenics.

After a night bus from Nicaragua to Guatemala City we decided to pause for a good night's rest in Antigua, Guatemala. Tomorrow we hit the road again, chicken bus style to Mexico where we hope to rest at Boca del Cielo (mouth of the sky).

San Juan Del Sur, Nicaragua

Our turning point. The furthest south we'll make it this go around. We've spent the last five days surfing (of course), hanging out with some old friends (Patricia Petmecky!, below) and planning our return trip. After some research and conversation with one Captain Peter, we discovered the hurricane season is indeed shaping northern travel, making it near impossible to get on crew for a boat headed north. So it looks like we will begin the long bus ride home (with a few stops along the way to make it more bearable). Today we say goodbye to Simon & Lee (the aussie's we have now been travelling with for almost two weeks).

Nicaragua

Crossing the border from Honduras to Nicaragua we found ourselves suddenly traveling down a dirt road where the paved highway allegedly runs. Doubting wether we had taken the right turn at the border crossing, we were reassured by semis wielding their large loads through potholes and horse drawn carriages. Apparently road construction is slow in Nicaragua, and despite increasing tourism, it continues to be one of the poorest countries in the western hemisphere (Nicaraguans go to El Salvador for better wages).


We have been travelling down the coast seeking waves (oftentimes on four wheel drive roads with a rear wheel drive van). Above the guys (Griff & Simon) scope out the waves for some good prospects. Below the van surprises us all by making it through a low water crossing.

South with the Aussies...

It seems the quintessential manner in which to wind down a trip with a surfing theme would be to hop in an old blue van with a few Australians and head down the pacific coast looking for waves (and in the case of the Australians, women).

And so it is. We have accepted the offer and should be leaving our favorite surf spot sometime within the week (at the whims of Lee, Simon, and Paul now). Below Griffin is given the ¨Australian mullet¨haircut. I´ll have to get some shots of the aftermath. The old blue van that they have driven down the entire coastline from Canada can be seen in the background.

Some favorte foods along the way...

As our trip is winding down (we are looking at heading north sometime next month, but not after one or two more stops in Nicaragua) it is fun to reflect on one of my favorite aspects of travelling... the food! New fruits are always popping up (especially as we have been down here for the change of seasons). Above is a pataya and below is one of our favorite new snacks, chocolate covered, frozen banana!

And of course, the experience wouldn´t be complete without ¨chengas¨, as they are referred to in some parts of El Salvador. A bucket of corn is thoroughly washed, put through the mill and then stone ground to a finer consistency. A little water, salt, and some proper hand technique, and you have the El Salvadoran tortilla; thick & hearty, it is approximately ten times the size of a mexican tortilla.

A Typical Day...

Since our visit with Kelly in the country town of Canton Argentina, we have been staying at a little surf town by the name of Sunzal. It has proved to be a lovely stop and a very gentle wave for beginners...

We wake up, generally early (our lives have begun to parallel the sun), have a quick snack and head down to the beach for an early morning ¨session¨(the lingo for a surfing session). Then, generally, return a couple of hours later for a larger breakfast (something along the lines of fried plantains, refried red beans, eggs, homemade bread or tortillas & coffee), lounge during the heat of the day, reading or, in the case of Griffin, playing the mandolin, and in the case of myself, learning to embroider. Then, out for another afternoon or evening session, a quick supper, and hit the bed soon after the sun sets (which is early... around 7 o´clock). Add a little human interaction with locals or other travellers, and that has been a typical day in the last two weeks.

We are about to head to the high country to allow our bodies some recovery (surfing is indeed physically demanding) & for a little civil war history... we are headed to the sight of ¨Massacre at Mazote.¨

The People of Canton Argentina...

Griffin and some of the fellas playing cards at the game table (a rock surrounded by rock seats next to ¨la cancha¨, or the soccer field.
This is actually the public transportation for Canton Argentina. Above is the soccer team on the way to a game (all holding on tightly as the truck makes its way down a steep dirt road). Griffin got to play, but unfortunately i was still recovering from a sprained ankle acquired during ¨practice¨ (it is a shame I didn´t get to play, as I would have been the first gal to participate)... Playing soccer in sandals on a dirt field is highly unadviseable.

One of my favorite of the elders helps her grandson into a pair of shorts.

the highlands of El Salvador...

One of Kelly´s old host families put us up for the week of our stay in Canton Argentina. This is them resting in the shade of their watermelon patch after a laborious gathering of wood in the heat. That´s the pacific meeting the shoreline below.

El Salvador

Finger-like ridges stretch to the ocean, ending either subtely or abruptly in cliffs at the shore of the Pacific. It is by far one of the most beautiful shorelines yet. We have been spending the last week in the dreamy little country pueblo of Canton Argentina where our good friend ¨Red Dawg¨ has happily been adopted by more than one El Salvadoran family. The existence is more than comparable to stories grandparents tell in the states... JCPenny´s catalogues for toilet paper, taking horses to work in the fields, & walking two miles to school uphill in some pretty tricky shoes. We have enjoyed getting to know the people, learning to making ¨chengas¨(homemade corn tortillas cooked over a fire), washing clothes in the creek, helping build a road to the village (a tremendous project), and all around learning about a different way of life.

We made a trip to La Libertad today to get some groceries and take care of a few other things (such as internet). Of course there are so many photos I would love to share but those will have to come later.

Canton Argentina...

Just a quick note as the computer I am using is having serious issues...

After the highlands we returned to Champerico to grab our boards. I of course have some photos I would love to post, but the machine I´m using has other thoughts. Tomorrow we are bound for El Salvador. Luck would have it that one of our good friends, ¨Red Dog¨, happens to be returning to the town he was in for two years during his service in the Peace Corps. Luck would also have it that it happens to be located next to some of the best surf in El Salvador.

More later...

All Shook Up...

Sitting on our balcony the other day we were surprised by a tremor that shook the entire building. Exposed rebarb (common here and usually indicative of the hope to one day add a second level) vibrated at the same pace as the concrete and wooden walls. We had been watching a storm blow in and immediately tried to explain the 30 second tremor with wind... or is that volcano over there really unactive? We finally assumed it must have been an earthquake, which was indeed verified by an article in the paper the following day: 5.4 on the rictor scale! The entire country shook. We were far enough away from the source that it only reached us as mild vibrations. No one in the town flinched. Accustomed to this sort of plate tectonics everyone continued work as if nothing had happened.

The pic is taken looking down on San Pedro, the town where we have been based at Lago Atitlan. An intricate maze of layers and back alleyways, it has been a lovely stay. Spanish is a second language for most people in this town and Mayan is the most commonly heard language in the streets and market.

Lago Atitlan

Sitting at 1,560 meters, the lake was originally formed by a volcanic eruption thousands of years ago. From the shores of this enchanting lake three unactive volcanos are still visible.

The weather this time of year is comparable to that of early summer in the south. Sunny mornings moderated by afternoon showers keep temperatures fresh and cool. As a result we have planned activities around the weather, kayacking or hiking in the mornings and simply sipping coffee (from the region!) and reading in the afternoon to a tune of rain on tin roofs. The picture at the top is taken from our balcony (15 quetzales per person a night = $2).

To the highlands...

After a lovely week in Champerico we decided to head to the highlands for a few days to cool off. So we left our surf boards in storage in Champerico and hopped a chicken bus for Lago Atitlan.... pics to come soon.

Blessed are the eyes of the traveler...

For whom the faculty of wonder is restored, like that of a child´s, when suddenly patterns are broken by a never-before-seen bug on the bathroom wall, a different way of greeting one another in the street, or the turtle and fish in the wash basin. It is indeed beautiful to stand witness to a different existence.

While talking to locals here we have been surprised to learn how many have family working in the states (almost everyone in this town). It seems as if many are illegal (I believe one woman said her son walked) and because of it are unable to return without re-living the arduous journey. Some people have not seen their sons or daughters, brothers or sisters in years or have yet to meet the grandson or granddaughter born abroad. Those left behind, like my friend Yoseline, express how sad it is to not have the ability to see loved ones. As a result Yoseline says she has no desire to go to the states, unless perhaps by plane to visit family there.

When we ask why they keep going we are told it is, of course, for the money (there are two western unions in this tiny town). ¨There is no money here,¨they say. But, Griffin and I are quick to point out that there is fish & fruits and life here is so much more laid back. It is almost so self-sustaining there is near no need for an economy. Is it worth it to trade this life for money? Then what? It seems many feel the need to make the sacrifice for the rest of their family. Once they get to the states they may not like it. Life is difficult, but there is indeed money and once there, it is a stalemate.

Meanwhile, life here continues in its own laid-back guatemalteco manner. Children play in the streets and beach and people seem to work on a convenience basis (if a restaurant does well one day, it may just close down the next, take time to regroup and clean and then re-open whenever necessary). The sun rises at 6:00 and sets at 7:00 (I don´t think they use ¨daylight savings¨), the temperature remains the same year round, families sit down together to eat, and always siesta is observed. All-in-all, a typical tropical climate with the typical tropical lifestyle.